2018年1月11日 星期四

《走一趟荷蘭廣場》


探索人文精粹重返歷史現場,走一趟荷蘭廣場,懷舊尋訪馬六甲,悠悠往事細說從頭恍如進入昔日殖民時期的軌跡裡……





 遊船划移過河,瞬間流轉,意識也在過去現在時空間轉動......回到永樂鄭和下西洋回到荷蘭廣場回到英國殖民時期,引發懷舊心緒。 








悠悠逝水,沿著馬六甲河域尋訪豐富傳奇,視野從麻六甲河出發,穿梭建築之間,走進荷蘭廣場,傾聽這奇妙城市的豐富歷史。








歷史悠久的美麗小鎮-馬六甲,如今列入聯合國世界遺產。古城集合了葡、荷、英清、大馬的文物古蹟,匯聚在荷蘭廣場。








滿城繽紛三輪車穿街遊走,穿梭近百年建築中尋訪歷史,自十五世紀以來的時空之旅細數葡、荷、英斑斑殖民帝國史蹟







當年葡萄牙人在聖保羅山環圍築牆,以為防衛馬六甲的要塞,山腳下的聖地牙哥碉堡,包圍整座山峰,環形劇場般的城牆,屏障了歐洲移民。








 穿過拱門厚牆,參觀聖地牙哥古堡城門。聖地牙哥意為「葡萄牙的守護神」,堡壘建立於一五一一年,當時號稱東南亞最堅固的防禦工事。






城堡環山而建,城牆厚達三米,西北面聳立着四十米高的瞭望台,用以防禦蘇丹軍隊,腳踏堅實曲折的城門拱洞,實地想見這段厚重歷史。








三百年後,英國人將葡萄牙人建立的聖地牙哥古堡摧毀殆盡,如今劇場環繞般的城堡僅剩下一座滄桑城門和寥落砲台,提供舞台懷古憑弔。





和荷人交戰中嚴重受創的古堡,一八0七年又被英軍破壞,城門倖免於難,當地人視為馬六甲的精神象徵,建造仿古大砲緬懷這段歷史。





朝古堡大門後方往山坡上走攀登階梯來到聖保羅山,山丘是馬六甲制高點,聖保羅教堂就座落在此,教堂是葡萄牙將領兌特所建。




https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRFOTBuZVK1_FvmokdQP7IQWQDGOBVluRc0DGgitKBe0d2byYw9

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSg3Iuty16VzdJKf6oIb2HeEHf_Go9cnsFuJGteAyHdgpJij90GBg

蘇丹皇宮基址興建的當時這座城市最先進的,也是遠東首座天主教堂其後荷蘭人埋葬名人,墓碑林立,以曾到此居留的聖法朗西斯最著名。


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

荷交戰教堂頹圮,聖法朗西斯的塑像挺立山頂聖保羅教堂遺跡前,俯瞰整座城市,彷彿訴說著這四百多年來馬六甲的歷史。







廣場名為荷蘭廣場,放眼一片,建築原來是荷蘭殖民時期的場域,民宅紛紛效尤讓此地洋溢著古色古香的氛圍。






基督教堂緊臨荷蘭殖民的市政廳造型典雅赭紅色外牆,以鑲嵌方式搭構屋頂橫樑的教堂,是馬六甲最具歷史意義的廣場中最鮮明地標






磚紅色的磚造建築完成於一七五三年,是荷蘭殖民慶祝統治一百周年所建,歷經三百年寒暑,仍是東南亞地區最古老的教堂建築翹楚。





荷蘭鐘塔後是改設於一六五0年的市政廳,是東南亞地區僅存最古老的荷蘭建築如今轉型為馬六甲博物館蒐藏整座城市的歷史發展過程。






時間來到一八六六年,英國人在市政廳前建造三層樓的荷蘭式方型鐘塔和維多利亞女皇噴水池,整座廣場頓時煥發著彷彿歐陸般的懷舊情調。





雅的英式造型的的噴泉柱是為紀念英國維多利亞女皇所建,彷彿紀念碑的泉柱訴說著大英曾經追隨葡萄牙、荷蘭,登陸馬六甲帝國盛況。








站在聖地牙哥古城門內,遙望前方建國聖地,此地是當年首相東姑阿都拉曼從英國倫敦協調返國後,宣布馬來西亞脫離殖民獨立的歷史景點。








寬敞開闊的廣場,稱為「英雄廣場」,坐落著「宣布獨立紀念館」,在馬來西亞脫離英國殖民地獨立的轉型歷史中具有特殊意義。




穿梭歷史,古蹟區嚴禁車輛通行,在行人專用徒步區,深入探訪這片懷舊景區, 不期而遇街頭藝人秀,讓漫步的遊客寫下驚喜的篇章





 走一趟荷蘭廣場,目睹葡、穿越馬六甲海峽,殖民軌跡裡各領風騷,留下宣示主權見證歷史的不朽建築與異國文化遺蹟。








馬六甲忠實地保留古風,見證了馬來西亞近三百年的演變過程,走一趟重現歷史風貌的荷蘭廣場,是認識馬來西亞歷史最好的教材。


(以上圖片版權為原作者所有。若有觸及版權請通知本人刪除圖片。)

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