2018年2月10日 星期六

《小漁人家姓周橋》


「橋東橋西好景色人來人去踏浪行。」探訪姓周橋海上屋,尋找古老移民樣貌,屬於檳城喬治市世界文化遺產中獨特的水上聚落......






離開富麗的邱公司,沿著英國殖民風格的街屋前行,往海邊走,探訪海墘街海上橋狀木屋區,和堂皇的宗祠相比,街區展現一片純樸風貌。




街道散發著中西交融的懷舊氣息,海風熱浪,百葉窗扇半敞開,十九世紀華麗的夢仍未醒來,日光伸長了影子,追逐夢,尋訪街的盡頭。






十九世紀此地貨船往來頻繁港口水淺,需雇小船接駁,碼頭邊搭起了姓氏專屬的棧橋和公司不遠處的渡輪碼頭,是華人抵達檳城最早聚落。






「福降自天德威在土。移民南下築夢,宗親意識濃郁錯雜著原鄉福建的寺廟,此地你可以感受依姓氏群聚的色彩散發著甘榜風情






系出炎黃,聲馳晉水。」謝氏祠堂,寶樹稱之。抬頭一望牌匾,檳城喬治市五大氏族的石塘謝面向本頭公巷的精緻門樓今日猶見。




「氏傳申伯,望重東山。」追古思今,喬治有寶。當年謝公司提倡鼎新革舊,是國民黨革命基地,堂內育才學堂旁門密道曾助孫逸仙脫困。


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來到正對著姓陳橋媽祖廟,姓周橋頭榕樹旁的朝元宮。正月初九天公誕,保生大帝神鑾出發迎駕,神威顯赫,鑼鼓喧天,窄巷頓時絡繹蜂擁......




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廟前四條青龍盤柱而上,飄洋過海的龍比久居陸地的龍兄弟強烈的企圖心,不是追龍珠轉,而是智珠在握,緊緊將龍珠握在龍爪內。




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小漁人家姓周橋,姓周橋是姓氏橋當中規模最大的一座橋,橋上約有七十五戶人家,建於十九世紀中,僑民來自福建省泉州同安縣杏林社


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輕輕踩著伊呀伊呀的木板橋,向前行房舍與房舍間的狹窄走道,可以通往另一條棧橋,兩條主要棧橋,一條為一八二米,另一條一二二


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打樁海中,包覆鉛管,放眼長樁,海裡來浪裡去。」原是橋邊工休憩小屋如今碼頭棧橋邊同姓聚居搭建高腳小屋已列入世界遺産





看歲月洗禮,走進電影《初戀紅豆冰》著名的姓周橋場景,身臨其境,感受檳城海角,喬治居民保留閩南原鄉,同時融入在地的的生活特色。




「肯與翁鄰相對飲,隔籬呼取盡餘杯。鄰里間窗對着窗,隔著伸手可觸及的距離,婆婆倚靠在自家的欄杆前,跟對的鄰居聊天說地




濃郁的生活氣息撲面而來。不少住户敞開大門,對來來往往拍照取景的觀光客早已習以為常,有些人家放門戶經營漁村特色民宿。




百年漁村新興旅遊熱潮,新模式,有亮點,也有火花。民宿對面的水果甜品店融入南洋特色的裝置,人與環境共存,讓生命自由伸展。





坐在木籃椅上,數著港灣僑居,姓林橋、姓周橋、姓陳橋、姓李橋、姓楊橋、雜姓橋及平安橋,沿著港灣修築了一道居的海上人家落。




一進入姓氏橋,時光彷彿這巷口臨海小平台凝固的搖椅,斂住了腳步,這裡的居民生活簡單而淳樸,老一輩的居民仍繼續以捕魚為生。





人生並非初見,「離唐容易返唐難」,時光棧道延伸,可老一輩華人依舊照著祖祖輩輩流傳下來的生活方式,一橋一姓,結廬海濱,出海捕魚。






年輕人大多已搬遷外居,老人留下來,居民在自家門前售賣手工藝品、紀念品,當然也少不了展示小吃和飲料,此地大碗公面遠近馳名。






大紅燈籠高高掛,濃濃的中國色彩,窄巷遮雨的檐板下長串的燈籠讓平常多了節慶氛圍,夜晚點起光明燈,更加多了浪漫古典的風情。






揖讓月在手,動搖風滿懷。」一把把的摺扇,織起古典浪漫的懷舊氣息,雖是初冬,但在全年暑熱的馬來西亞檳城島,卻是不可一日無此君。



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慧心不在遠,容膝何須多?海上感天宫是道教神供奉着中國原鄉祖籍的感天大帝,斗姆天尊神明,小廟也跟著姓周橋小漁人家香火不絕。






街頭藝術風潮在檳島熱銷,立陶宛籍藝術家爾納斯,受邀為檳城創作「喬治市鏡像計劃」系列,以《姐弟共騎》最著名,最受遊客歡迎。






當時才廿五歲,他先是到處遊走,拍下檳城人生活,依原型寫實,在斑駁的老建築上畫出生動的壁畫,姓周橋上也繪製《漁船小孩》壁畫。




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

其實《漁船小孩》作品非檳城場景,原型是作者蘇門答臘背包旅行所拍攝,但是與在喬治城姓周橋所見的生活方式卻是出奇的相似切合。




https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQKJK94Y1rVzW7KcuIw2o1cGFxerbal9ULs9wEbJk3m9q1TWvrn4g

風吹日曬,很快開始風化隨著老牆壁斑駁剝落,二0一四年重新繪製,傳統的水上木屋, 創新的現代藝術,一張留住檳城生活的童年時光翦影。




沿着木板徒步一百公尺走到橋的尾端,遠方新世界檳城的海岸線映入眼簾,眼前水面空闊,人行橋頭,視野平遠,浮船上下,倒影淪漣......






坐在姓周橋的木板遣堤棧道上,看著頻繁往來的船隻,眼前的景致美得像電影畫面,充滿著濃濃歷史風情和生活氣息的海上人家聚落。






置身小漁人家村落,真有船子和尚所謂的:「終日江頭埋棹間,忽然失濟若未還。灘急急,水潺潺,爭把浮生坐等閒。」悠然見海的韻味。






遠眺水上橋樑,還有那一排排的水上風情高腳木屋,木樁上藏著一段一百多年前泉州人下南洋的故事。世遺城市,小漁人家,歷史近在眼前


(以上圖片版權為原作者所有。若有觸及版權請通知本人刪除圖片。)

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